Sa Pa, Vietnam

The best way to Sa Pa (or Sapa) is by train. Don't bother to even think about taking a car or a bus since Vietnamese highways are not that good. 

From Hanoi, take a Livitrans tourist train (http://www.livitrans.com/en/index.php) at 8:35 pm. The cost is around US$33 for tourist class accommodations, which is not bad and quite comfortable. But if there are only two of you traveling, don't be surprised if you end up sharing your cabin with strangers (there are 4 bunks). If you want privacy, get on the VIP class which costs US$72, which I think is a waste of money for just one night on a train. 

You'll arrive in Lao Cai station at 5:00 am. Make sure to make pick-up arrangements with your hotel in Sapa since the town is 45 minutes to an hour's drive from Lao Cai. If you don't have arrangements, good luck with the buses because they don't look too comfortable. At least the ones that I saw.  

Our hotel was an additional 18 kilometres away from Sapa so it took almost two hours--oh it was raining hard--so it took more than that until we were able to relax and rest. More on our hotel later. 

Sapa is a nice, quiet town in the northwest of Vietnam, located quite close to the Chinese border. We were there in July, which is a good time to visit, but be prepared for some rain. 

Also be prepared for a lot of hill tribespeople persuading tourists to buy their wares. They are pleasant and mean no harm but very persistent to the point of annoyance. So if you don't want to buy anything, be firm and act uninterested. One show of interest or even a short glance will send them going after you again. 

But if you want to buy some souvenirs, their stuff (caps, silver accesorries, handphone trinkets, bags, etc) are very pretty and well-made. You get to help the local economy, too!

Best souvenirs are pillowcases made of silk and hand-embroidered by some of the tribespeople. 

Aside from shopping, you can also spend the day exploring this town.  It's so small that you can see every nook and cranny for less than a day. Use sturdy, comfortable shoes as the town is very hilly.  Go check out the Sa Pa Market

Take pictures of the nice architecture 

or have a beer in one of the local taverns overlooking the main street.  

And if you're adventurous enough, you can take a hike (with a guide, of course) in the surrounding areas to visit local villages inhabited by the tribes. 

If you want to go further, you can rent a motorbike for a few dollars a day. Make sure to get a local guide because the roads are quite dangerous and mostly cliffside so if you're not really that good on a motorbike, don't drive. 

If you want to stay in Sapa town, Victoria Hotel is the best and most expensive choice. We didn't stay there so I'm not familiar with their rates but you can visit their website at http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com/eng/hotels-in-vietnam/sapa-resort-spa

It's located on a hill overlooking the town. To get there, you have to drive up the hill or go up a flight of stairs. We had lunch there and the food was excellent. 

If you want cheaper accommodations, there are a lot of small hotels on the main street like the Auberge. A lot of them have websites for reservations but make sure you check tripadvisor.com first for recommendations. You wouldn't want to end up in a rathole. 

OUR HOTEL - TOPAS ECOLODGE

I don't know how my husband found this place (maybe at http://www.topasecolodge.com/ haha!) But it was quite a find and has a unique concept. It is located in the middle of Hoang Lien Son National Park where a lot of the tribes live and is 18 km away (about 30 mins) from Sapa town. It was raining heavily when we arrived so the road was scary with waterfalls from the mountains spilling into it (literally).

I wanted to scream at my husband for taking me to a godforsaken place but decided that his intentions were pure and not some plot to take me away from the comforts of civilization to make me the next 'Survivor' winner.  So I kept quiet.  And was so relieved when we got to the beautiful Topas Ecolodge

and whisked away for breakfast at the second floor.

A word on the breakfast.  The bread they served was homemade and delicious, hot and soft. Yummmmm...

Now for our bungalow.  This is where we stayed. 

Our lovely bungalow was very clean with a big toilet, wooden floors, comfortable beds and a spacious balcony. Electricity and the water heater are all solar powered although regular electricity kicks in when needed. There's no aircon so it could be warm and humid when the day is hot so better not stay here during the summer months. Winter also could be quite cold but every cottage is provided with a portable heater. Staying there in July was just right.  

The best part of the bungalow is the balcony. The view of the Hoang Lien National Park is breathtaking. You can actually see two mountain ranges from our balcony. 

and also some non-environmental stuff like this eroded land. 

The Ecolodge also offers free rides to Sapa town and back, you just need to book the van. Since it's far away from the main town, this place is great for relaxing and just appreciating nature. They have  garden chairs overlooking the valley were you can just lounge around.  

There's a cute gazebo on a hill where you can see the whole compound, plus the valley and the mountains and beyond.  A very romantic area (sigh).  

They have one computer with internet connection that guests can use, board games, racquets, balls, and they arrange numerous hikes to the valley and tribe villages near the Lodge. 

We hiked, met three tribeswomen (more on them later) and saw this view, 

a Red Dao tribe family,

a water buffalo that can't stop looking at the camera,

and the view of Topas Ecolodge from afar. 

We paid US$217 per person for a 3 day/2 night stay including meals and the train ticket from Hanoi to Lao Cai and back. So it's quite a good value.

Some points to ponder on Topas Ecolodge. Although the Vietnamese staff members were very gracious, the managers (or owners) were German and a bit cold. They won't talk to you unless you talk to them.  No suggestion of what to do. No asking how we are, whether we enjoyed our stay, if we need anything, etc. 

They had friends staying in the lodge while we were there and they just socialized with their friends, which I think was quite not right for people who were in the hospitality industry. I hope they become friendlier because they have a really good place.

Our meals were included in the package (because there's nowhere else to eat) and although the breakfast was excellent (the bread!), lunch and dinner was only so-so.  I was expecting more Vietnamese dishes but most of the food were kind of pan-Asian (not quite Chinese, not quite Vietnamese, not quite Thai).  They did not even serve my favourite fresh spring rolls and Pho.  

But if you ask me if this place is worth coming back again, I'll say that it is.  If only for the view and the bread.  

Air Asia - The BIG SALE goes International

My favourite low-cost airline is now having its BIG SALE with discounts on flights and hotel stays.  My best advice is for you to book early so that you can get the lowest price possible.  My husband and I don't have loads of money but we get to travel a lot because we always book our trips 6 months in advance. We always get the cheapest price. 

Log on to http://goholiday.airasia.com/cms/RunScript.asp?Page=395&a=a&sform=sform&p=ASP%5CPg395.asp and book that holiday!

Hanoi - What To Do

The must-do's in Hanoi are just like the same list that you'd do with any other city--theatre, museums, temples, food and shopping.  But each place has its own quirks and charm that makes it worth visiting. So here are my Hanoi must do list. 

1. HOAN KIEM LAKE

Located in the Old Quarter, this lake is full of folklore (which you can ask the locals about during a glass of beer). At the center of the Hoan Kiem is an islet called the Turtle Pagoda, a monument to the golden turtle, one of Vietnam's mythical animals. Nice photo ops for camwhores at the bridge with the lake behind you. Would've been romantic if weren't filled with too much people. The surroundings of Hoan Kiem Lake is also a sight during the dawn with senior citizens doing their synchronized exercises. 

It's open from 7:30 to 18:00 and costs 12,000VND or 80 cents.

2. CHECK OUT THE TEMPLE OF LITERATURE

The best example of ancient Vietnamese architecture and is one of the city's best cultural sights. Built in 1070, it was the country's first university.  It has big courtyards, gardens and lily ponds and it's very quiet compared to the rest of the city. I loved the big red pagoda that flanked the entrance. 

It's open from 8:30 to 11:30, 13:30 to 16:30 and costs about 10,000VND or around 50 cents to get in.

3. WATCH THE THANG LONG WATER PUPPET SHOW

This was a bit creepy but cute for me.  I don't like human-like puppets.  They freak me out (think Chucky).  But there's something fascinating about these puppets that tell the story about Vietnamese life and folklore. And I admire the puppeteers for being in the water all that time. The live band that uses local instruments was also great.  

I watched the 20:00 show and it costs 60,000 VND or around 4 USD.  We had seats right in front of the theatre which was good but got splashed. 

4. GO TO THE CATHOLIC CHURCH OF ST. JOSEPH

A really old church with French architecture (reminds me a bit of the Notre Dame, well just a wee bit).  No entrance fees.  It is also surrounded by nice shops and cafes that have al fresco dining. 

5. SEE THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF VIETNAMESE HISTORY

A lovely museum that features beautiful artifacts and antiques from Vietnam's past.  Well-maintained and clean, too. I also loved the architecture except for its yellow color. 

Entrance fee is 20,000VND or around 1.50 USD.  Open from 8:00 to 16:30 everyday.

6. EAT PHO BO AND FRESH SPRING ROLLS FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH OR DINNER

Available everywhere, I can eat these two dishes for every meal.  Pho Bo is an exquisite beef noodle soup and fresh spring rolls are made of crunchy vegetables and shrimp. I tasted the best spring rolls at Koto on Van Mieu restaurant (thank you, Lonely Planet, for the reco) and the best Pho Bo is found on the streets of the Old Quarter.  Eat it while watching the busy Hanoi traffic for a real Vietnamese experience.  Yum!

7. VISIT THE HO CHIN MINH MUSEUM AND MAUSOLEUM

This Museum is the noisiest that I've ever been in. There were too many people so I was not able to enjoy it. Don't go during the weekends because people from other towns go to Hanoi and this is usually their first stop.  Entrance fee is 15000 VND or around 90 cents. It's open from 8:00 to 11:30, 2:00 to 4:00.

The line to see the dead body of Ho Chin Minh was a kilometer long so I decided not to waste my whole day standing in line.  But a lot of great photo ops around this mini Tiananmen Square. 

8. SHOP

Lots of silk dresses (some of them you can have custom-made), ties, bags, hats, toys, shoes, lacquer ware and everything you can think of are available in the shops of the Old Quarter of Hanoi. 

If you want luxury goods, Burberry, LV, etc are located near the Opera House and Hilton Hotel. But I recommend going to the Old Quarter for a totally different (and cheap!) shopping experience.  

Hanoi hotels

There are a lot of budget hotels in Hanoi, especially in the old quarter, that are quite decent and lies in the middle of everything. Most of them have free internet and include breakfast in the package. But before you book anything, search the web for reviews and recommendations first so that you won't end up in a rat-infested dump that serves rotten ham and eggs. 

We stayed at two hotels in Hanoi. One before we went to Sapa (which will be in another post) and a different one after we got back from Halong Bay (which will also be in another post).

The first one is Camellia 4 Hotel (don't ask me where Camellia 1 to 3 or 5 is because I have no idea), which has US$33 to US$ 37 rooms which are clean and cozy. They don't have a funny smell unlike other hotels and have big bathrooms. My only complaint is that the people in the neighboring building can see some parts of your body while you're taking a shower (at least in our room) so for exhibitionists, feel free to book here. I guess I wasn't able to let out the porn star in me so I kinda felt uncomfortable (good thing we stayed only for a couple of nights). 

Buffet breakfast was not so hot but edible and the service staff are nice people. Internet is free at the lobby and it's close to the Hoan Kiem Lake, Water Puppet Theater a lot of restaurants and shops. They'll also pick you up at the airport with an extra charge and can arrange a tour of the city. 

Overall, Camellia 4 is a pretty good choice for one who's on a budget. So I recommend it if you want a no frills hotel.

To find out more, their website is http://www.camellia4hotel.com/.

The second hotel was Boss Hotel. Tacky name but great place. The people at the reception can speak French and are just so gracious.  The place is also quite new so the room is spic and span with a great bathroom (cool tub!) and a cool PC/TV with free internet.  

Breakfast is OK with Vietnamese and Western food selections.  I recommend this hotel more than Camellia 4 but it's a bit pricey starting at US$ 75 for a superior room.  It's also closer to the center of the old quarter (3 minute walk) where all the action is. 

I wasn't able to take pictures of the room (they are small but really nice) but you can see them at http://www.bosshotel-hanoi.com/bosshotel/   

  

HA! NOI

This is a crazy place. If there's one term that can perfectly describe this city, it's organized chaos. Nobody follows traffic rules yet there seems to be very little accidents on the road. People drink beer every sundown until late at night but I never saw drunks roaming the streets. The place has a lot of poverty but you don't feel like someone is going steal your camera to get a quick buck.  

Hanoi has its charm and in some places, you get to see the French influence and feel like you're in some part of France (but if someone tells you that Hanoi is like a small Paris, please don't believe them because it's absolutely not true).  This vibrant city is full of life, packed with people that are gentle, noisy, respectful, cheerful and just crazy in the way they drive. Which makes Hanoi a must see.  So I recommend everyone to go. And for those who have visited this charming city, there's always a reason to come back. Tips on hotels, souvenirs and landmarks in the next entries.